Power Steering System Upgrade

In May and June of 2021, I decided to upgrade the power steering on my 1993 custom Chevy Indy Pace Truck. There were several reasons for this.

I could tell that the power steering pump was on its way out from the whining noise it was making.
The power steering fluid was very dark and not healthy looking
There was decreased “power” in the power steering
After the Cunningham Machine steering shaft update, my steering wheel was off-center. Adjusting the tie rods to correct this was not going to work as the original tie rod adjusters were rusted in place.
I noticed there was increased “play” in the left to right motions of the steering wheel.

Step 1

I replaced the original steering shaft from the end of the steering wheel to the input of the original Saginaw steering gearbox. I ordered and installed the Cunningham Machine 1988-1994 Chevrolet/GMC Truck Steering Shaft
This definitely improved the steering play and performance and gave me the motivation to finish the rest of the steps!

Step 2

I researched upgraded performance power steering options and decided on and ordered the following items from Summit Racing, LMC Truck, Rock Auto, and my local NAPA Dealer:

AGR-283352 Steering Super Box 2
AGR-807324 Power Steering Pump
AAZ-20-7828 Cardone Power Steering Pump (rebuilt)
34-1122 Adjusting sleeves (2)
269-2729 Inner Tie Rod Ends
269-2728 Outer tie rod ends
7-2427 Power steering pressure hose
7-2434 Power steering return hose
268-3705 Idler arm assembly
268-3691 Idler arm
45C0045 ACDELCO Pitman Arm

Following the AGR Installation Instructions, I replaced the rebuilt Cardone pump with the new AGR Pump – basically, I just used the Cardone outer container. Then I masked, cleaned, and painted the AGR components with Eastman rust preventing and encapsulating paints.

Step 3

I removed the front alternator/PS pump bracket from the 383 Stroker,
Removed and replaced the PS pump onto that bracket
Re-installed the PS bracket
Removed the Cunningham Machine steering shaft, then the OEM Saginaw gearbox and pitman arm from the frame
Coated rusted and exposed sections of the frame with Eastman rust encapsulating coatings and paint.
Installed the new AGR Steering Gearbox with the new Pitman arm, and reattached the Cunningham Machine shaft
Added AC Delco power steering fluid to power steering pump and bled the system per AGR Instructions
Reconnected the Serpentine belt to drive the power steering pump
Started engine and tested the power steering system for performance and leaks. All Good!

Step 4

Removed passenger side tie rods and idler arm assembly from the frame
Replaced Idler Arm assembly on frame (the most difficult part)
Made new tie rod assembly from inner-outer tie rods and new adjuster sleeves to match the length of old tie rods (which were aligned correctly).
Installed, tested, and torqued all the connections and castle nuts with cotter pins
Repeated the tie rod assembly procedure for the driver’s side (easier because it does not have an idler arm assembly.
After test driving, I then used the adjuster sleeves to center my steering wheel! All Good!

July 2021 – Steering Column

I’ve noticed over a long period of time that even after I upgrade suspension and steering parts, there is a rattle that is noticeable only when I drive over a series of rapid, small bumps in the road surface. Recently my friend Dan came over to do an oil change, and I had him rack the steering wheel back and forth rapidly while I looked under the hood for where this rattle might be coming from.

I found that at the end of the steering column, where the shaft protrudes from the end of the housing, and where I had connected my Cunningham Machine shaft assembly, there appears to be some play in the shaft. Sure enough, after a little research, I learned that there is a bearing inside the end of the lower steering column that needs replacement when it wears out.

I found and ordered a lower steering column bearing replacement kit online from a seller on eBay. After it arrived and I installed it on my truck, there was still significant play. I found the same kit at another source (manufactured by Crown Automotive) and noticed that it was exactly the same as the kit I returned to the eBay seller.

So, having learned about the “play” that is a part of this kit, I actually super-glued the bearing into the nylon bushing to fill up that slack. This has produced a satisfactory result for a minimal cost.